What Niacinamide Does — and Why Concentration Matters
Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3 and a precursor of NAD⁺ — nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide — an essential coenzyme involved in cellular energy production and DNA repair. In skin, NAD⁺ levels decline with age, which contributes to slower cell repair, weakened barrier function, and increased visible aging. Topical niacinamide helps replenish this pathway.
At the skin surface, niacinamide works through multiple simultaneous mechanisms. It stimulates ceramide synthesis, which directly strengthens the lipid barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. It inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, which is the mechanism responsible for its visible brightening and hyperpigmentation-reducing effect. It regulates sebaceous gland activity, reducing excess sebum without stripping. And it exerts measurable anti-inflammatory activity, making it particularly effective for acne-prone, rosacea-adjacent, and reactive skin that does not tolerate more aggressive actives.
5% vs 10% — which concentration is right
5% niacinamide is the concentration at which brightening, barrier support, and redness reduction are clinically documented. It is appropriate for daily use across all skin types, including the most sensitive, and is the concentration used in several By Valenti formulas paired with complementary actives.
10% niacinamide delivers stronger sebum regulation, more visible pore refinement, and faster results on uneven tone and post-acne marks. The Aqua b3 serum is formulated at 10% in a minimalist base — no zinc, no alcohol, no fillers — making it one of the few 10% niacinamide formulas suitable for sensitive skin without the irritation risk associated with high-concentration zinc combinations.
By Valenti Niacinamide Formulas
Aqua b3 — 10% Niacinamide Serum
A lightweight, crystal-clear water-based serum delivering 10% niacinamide alongside sea kelp bioferment and humectants. Formulated without zinc, fragrance, alcohol, or essential oils. Suitable for all skin types including sensitive, teenage, and acne-prone skin. Targets enlarged pores, redness, uneven texture, and excess sebum. Fast-absorbing. Daily AM and PM use.
Barcola Azzurro Mare Replenishing Elixir — 5% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum
An award-winning oil-free serum combining 5% niacinamide with low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and sea kelp bioferment. Targets barrier repair, multi-depth hydration, and skin texture simultaneously. Designed for sensitive skin. Fragrance-free. Contains no essential oils — suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Azzurrino Bi-Phase Brightening Serum — Niacinamide + Vitamin C
A bi-phase serum combining niacinamide and vitamin C to target uneven skin tone, post-acne marks, and dullness alongside hyaluronic acid and olive squalane for hydration and barrier support. Results visible in 1–3 weeks with twice-daily use.
Roses & Hibiscus Toner — 5% Niacinamide
A lightweight toner-serum hybrid with in-house formulated hibiscus and rose extracts, 5% niacinamide, and provitamin B5. Refreshes, hydrates, and prepares skin for active absorption. Suitable for all skin types. Can be used as a toner or throughout the day as a facial mist.
Roses & Hibiscus Serum — 5% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid
A hydrating toner-serum hybrid combining niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts to address redness, dehydration, and uneven tone in a single application. Lightweight formula suitable for sensitive and dry skin.
Who Niacinamide Skincare Is For
Niacinamide is one of the few high-performance actives with no meaningful exclusion criteria by skin type. It is documented to benefit:
-
Oily and combination skin — regulates sebum, reduces shine, minimizes pore appearance
-
Acne-prone skin — anti-inflammatory, reduces post-acne marks, does not promote purging
-
Sensitive and reactive skin — strengthens barrier, reduces redness, well-tolerated at both 5% and 10%
-
Dry and dehydrated skin — stimulates ceramide production, supports moisture retention
-
Aging and mature skin — reduces fine lines, improves elasticity, addresses hyperpigmentation
-
Hyperpigmented skin — inhibits melanin transfer, visibly brightens uneven tone over consistent use
How to Use Niacinamide in Your Routine
Niacinamide is compatible with most other active ingredients including hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, bakuchiol, AHAs, BHAs, and peptides. It does not require isolation from other actives and can be used morning and evening.
Layering order
Apply niacinamide after cleansing and toning, before heavier serums, oils, or moisturizers. In a multi-serum routine, apply water-based formulas before oil-based ones.
With vitamin C
Niacinamide and vitamin C are compatible when used in stable, well-formulated products. The concern about niacin flush from combining them is based on outdated research involving unstable forms of vitamin C and niacin rather than niacinamide. Modern stable vitamin C formulations do not produce this reaction.
Can niacinamide be used every day?
Yes. Niacinamide does not cause photosensitivity, purging, or an adjustment period. It is one of the safest daily-use actives at both 5% and 10% concentrations.