Common Name
Bakuchiol
INCI
Bakuchiol
Extraction or Production Process
Bakuchiol is an isolated, oil-soluble meroterpene phenol extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi) plant.
Sytheon Ltd., the company that commercialized Bakuchiol Sytenol® A, is the primary, widely recognized producer of high-purity (99%+), high-quality bakuchiol. Sytenol® A is REACH-registered in the European Union and is among the most extensively studied, clinically tested and standardized forms of bakuchiol currently available for cosmetic use. It's considered the gold standard for authentic, stable, and safe retinol alternative, widely used in premium cosmetic formulations.
Sytheon Ltd uses a proprietary extraction process that ensures high purity and conservation of the bioactive properties of bakuchiol, ensuring it is free from impurities often found in crude extracts including furocoumarins (psoralens), which can cause skin irritation.
High-purity bakuchiol is a viscos amber-gold in color oil-like ingredient, and completely hydrophobic (oil-soluble). It is not a water-based extract, it is not viscous clear, and not a cold-pressed seed oil.
Sources
Bakuchiol is sourced from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, a mainstay in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. This plant-based source categorizes bakuchiol as a natural ingredient.
The isolated molecule is distinct from:
- • Babchi seed oil
- • Babchi seed extract
- • Water-based purple leaf extracts
These materials contain multiple plant compounds and are not equivalent to purified bakuchiol.
Country of Origin
Sytheon, as a leading producer of high-quality natural bakuchiol in the US, France and Asia, sourcing its Psoralea corylifolia seeds primarily from India, where the plant is native and cultivated under conditions that support sustainable agriculture.
Function
Bakuchiol functions in cosmetic products as:
- Antioxidant
- Skin conditioning agent
- Anti-aging agent
- Appearance-enhancing active
- Anti-inflammatory supportive ingredient
It is particularly effective in stimulating collagen production, thereby improving skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging. It is widely studied for improving the visible signs of photoaging and supporting skin firmness.
Properties
As a natural compound, bakuchiol is stable, effective, and suitable for inclusion in various cosmetic formulations. Amber-gold in color, and completely hydrophobic (water repellent) Bakuchiol it is soluble in most organic solvents and oils, which facilitates its use in a broad range of product types.
- • Oil-soluble
- • Hydrophobic
- • Stable under typical cosmetic pH conditions
- • Amber to golden in color
- • Compatible with anhydrous and lipid-based formulations
Bakuchiol is often incorporated into serums, facial oils, and emulsions. Given its strong amber-gold color, formulations without pigments and dyes naturally appear golden to butter cream depending on the formulation.
Mechanism of Action
Bakuchiol has been shown in published studies to:
- • Support gene expression patterns similar to retinol
- • Improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- • Enhance skin firmness and elasticity
- • Reduce visible pigmentation irregularities
- • Support antioxidant defense mechanisms
Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol does not bind to retinoic acid receptors directly. Its activity appears to occur through modulation of cellular signaling pathways associated with collagen support and oxidative stress reduction.
Benefits
The benefits of bakuchiol include its ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and enhance skin firmness. Its antioxidant capacity also helps protect skin from oxidative stress, while its anti-inflammatory properties can soothe and calm irritated skin.
- • Improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- • Enhanced skin tone uniformity
- • Increased appearance of firmness
- • Reduction in visible photodamage
- • Suitable for individuals who do not tolerate retinoids
Clinical studies comparing bakuchiol to retinol have demonstrated comparable improvements in visible signs of aging, with lower reports of irritation.
Contraindications and Precautions
While bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated, users should always conduct a patch test before incorporating it into their skincare routine, particularly those with sensitive skin. As with many active ingredients, consultation with a healthcare provider is recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women.
As with all active cosmetic ingredients:
- • Patch testing is recommended
- • Discontinue use if irritation occurs
- • During pregnancy or breastfeeding, use only if advised by a healthcare professional
Bakuchiol vs Babchi Oil and Extracts
The Fake Bakuchiols and Their Harmful Side Effects
Bakuchiol is not a plant extract, a cold pressed oil and it is not a water-based purple solution. Bakuchiol is a hydrophobic (water repellent oil-like substance) amber to golden in color oil soluble ingredient, obtained through monomolecular extraction from the Babchi seeds — mono = one, meaning that only one molecule, the bakuchiol molecule, is obtained.
Bakuchiol (the molecule) is not the same as Psoralea Corylifolia seed oil or extract.
Babchi oil and extracts may contain:
- • Psoralens (furocoumarins)
- • Multiple secondary plant compounds
- • Variable and unstandardized bakuchiol levels
Several products on the market exist misleadingly claiming to be featuring Bakuchiol as their active ingredient, however disclosing it as bakuchiol extract or similar in the list of ingredients. These fake bakuchiol ingredients however because of the lack of purification and refinement contain high levels of Psoralens and no bakuchiol at all.
Psoralea corylifolia, the Babchi or Bakuchi plant from where the Bakuchiol is extracted from, contains high levels of Psoralens, undesirable chemical compounds known as furocoumarins left behind during the extraction process of various plant extracts, seed extracts and oils.
Psoralens are known photosensitizing compounds used in dermatology as a drug part of a therapy called PUVA, an acronym for Psoralen + UVA (Ultra Violet Light) to treat severe skin disorders such as psoriasis. The patient after taking the drug PUVA orally or applied topically, is then exposed to UVA light.
Unfortunately Psoralens cause the skin to be more sunlight-reactive, which pose many risks, including developing skin cancer and liver toxicity when taken orally among other negative side effects. Because psoralens increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, improper purification of Babchi extracts may increase the risk of photoreactivity.
Psoralens are used in many tanning lotions particularly in the U.S. to enhance skin darkening during tanning sessions.
Purified bakuchiol is isolated and processed to remove psoralens and other unwanted constituents. Unfortunately that cannot be said from the purple water-based extracts and the cold-pressed cooking oil many brands use to sell products under the umbrella of the original Bakuchiol ingredient.
Depending on extraction method and refinement level, crude or minimally processed extracts may contain variable bakuchiol concentrations and higher levels of furocoumarins.
For this reason, ingredient labeling and purification transparency are critical when evaluating bakuchiol products.
If an INCI lists Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Oil or Psoralea Corylifolia Extract and does not list Bakuchiol, it is not isolated bakuchiol.
Image source courtesy of: bakuchiol.net
From the BY VALENTI Lab
At BY VALENTI, raw materials are reviewed and verified for identity, purity, and regulatory compliance before entering production.
Because bakuchiol is frequently confused with Psoralea Corylifolia seed oil or extract, ingredient verification is essential. Analytical testing confirms molecular identity and ensures removal of naturally occurring furocoumarins (psoralens).
For our formulations, we source standardized, high-purity bakuchiol from Sytheon Ltd., producer of Sytenol® A, a REACH-registered material in the European Union.
